Plastic-free stretch denim for responsible fashion

This brand makes garments out of natural rubber and regenerative cotton

Spotted: Today’s clothing is full of plastic, with fossil-based polyester the world’s most widely used clothing fibre. And often to the surprise of consumers, this extends to denim. Today’s shoppers have become accustomed to having stretch in their jeans, and, to date, this stretch has been provided by plastic-based materials. Now, however, US responsible fashion brand Triarchy is looking to change this.

The company has teamed up with denim producer Candiani to create what it claims is the world’s first plastic-free stretch denim. In place of plastic, this denim uses natural rubber harvested from the rubber tree, which results in a product that is non-toxic, microplastic-free and biodegrades within two years at the end of its life. The material even has soil fertilisation benefits – it will compost the soil when it decomposes.

The rubber makes up between two and four per cent of the fabric depending on the blend, with the rest made of regenerative cotton. Triarchy’s creative director Adam Taubenfligel told Springwise: “I’ve never worked with traditional cotton just because it’s not responsible, and a brand of our size has the luxury of being able to make those decisions.” Although the brand supports organic cotton, its current focus is on regenerative cotton because of concerns about the reliability of certifications in the organic market. “I’ve really come to like regenerative cotton better because I just think it really motivates the farmer to change their practices without putting the pressures and cost of certification onto them,” Taubenfligel explains.

Beyond the material, Triarchy pursues responsible practices during the manufacturing of its jeans and other garments. When denim arrives from the mill it is very dark in colour. To achieve the classic aesthetic and bright summer blue colour that consumers have come to expect, a pair of jeans must go through a series of environmentally harmful and extremely water-intensive processes. These include stonewashing, acid and bleach treatments, and the application of the toxic chemical potassium permanganate, all interspersed with wasteful rinse cycles.

Triarchy instead uses a set of innovative machines that have the same effect as these techniques but with a lower impact. An e-flow machine mimics the effect of stonewashing by creating a vapour made up of enzyme-coated, exploding nano-bubbles. An ozone machine is then used for weathering and bleaching, while lasers perform the role of potassium permanganate.

Triarchy’s practices are assessed by third-party auditors, and consumers can see analysis of their individual garment by scanning the unique QR code that comes with each item. Although the brand’s products have a premium price point, Triarchy hopes to inspire broader change in the market. “I know we’re on the radar and that people are looking at these practices and realise that they’re important,” explains Taubenfligel. “Hopefully it’s inspiring change.”

Written By: Matthew Hempstead